DY5 Bulletin 3:

Anchovies & Deceits 

On the 24^th we walked further along Koh Maak to Laem Gruat. During the afternoon, many of us went for a closer look at the Four-Five Islands. That evening, a long local fable and excellent local music entertained us.

On the 25^th, we had a pleasant morning walk to Koh Gob, the end of Koh Maak closest to the Sating Phra peninsula (the Songkhla province side of the lake). Koh Gob was once a distinct island, as its name expresses. The road to it passed through swamps in which many pigs grazed, their pink ears flopping as they watched us pass. I take it there weren't any Muslims in this area. (At the Wat, I had a nice Dhamma session with some of the older men; so, they invited me to stay for the Rains Retreat. Might be a nice place to stay next year … )

After breakfast, we skimmed across the shallow lake to Khu Kuut in Sating Phra district. It was fun to watch the water birds from the fishermen's boats, but sad to see more mats of grass and reeds accumulating, a sign of continued sedimentation. Despite experiments with dredging, the lake seems to get shallower each year. Later, as we walked from Khu Kuut's bird sanctuary — a wonderful sight in the evenings! — south along the lake shore, we saw further progress of pig pens and cattle fields taking over the lake. Without a significant reversal of this process, the lake will become a series of streams and swamps amidst a large grazing area for cattle with the former islands as mere hills.

We reached Wat Laem Wang in time for lunch and had a restful afternoon there. As the Abbot was away, there were no activities with the community. We took the opportunity for some internal community building process and Dhamma reflections in the evening.

On the 26^th, a Wan Phra, we walked further south along the lake and then east across to the Gulf of Siam. This is the first time in any of the walks that we have focussed on issues of the Gulf and its people. We felt it was necessary this year because of the particular struggle occurring here now and the similarities between what is happening to fishing and other communities along both "tales", the talesap (lake) and the tale-thai (Gulf of Siam). We reached Bor Daeng and the Fishermen's Association Center were we will spend the next two nights. The group rested after our second, and last, 14 km day's walk and explored the beach. Boss, our young novice monk, is sorting a bag full of shells he collected.

Anchovy Fishing: Wiping Out What's Left of a Dying Fishery

The Fishermen's Association in Bor Daeng has been at the center of a so far unsuccessful struggle to prevent highly destructive anchovy fishing that both wipes out the remains of the already massively reduced fishery of the Gulf of Siam and makes the local people's livelihood improbable. Consequently, many of them have their backs to the wall economically and politically. While they have been scrupulously non-violent in their efforts, this has not been reciprocated by a government influenced by Siam's leading "influential person" (formerly "Godfather"). This depressing story illustrates much about the reality faced by ordinary people throughout this country, in fact, much of the "being exploited world" (sometimes euphemistically referred to as the "developing world"). I will try to tell what I can of these painful happenings, not forgetting the creative attempts by the fisherfolk to resolve the situation. I will also share some of the main points from a Dhamma reflection I was asked to make during last night's discussion (27^th).

This Fishermen's Association and similar ones elsewhere represent small-scale subsistence fishermen. They depend on each days catch for their livelihood, paying medical and school bills, way of life, and connection with their ancestors. Currently, they can catch 800-1000 baht per day worth of fish (on rare lucky days they might catch one of the few remaining large economic fish and make the equivalent of a month's earnings). After subtracting the cost of fuel and ice, plus paying helpers, they have 200-300 baht left (current exchange rate is 38 baht/dollar). To earn this, they must set sail around 3:00 am and sail out into the sea for 4 hours. They fish for about 2 hours and then come back. That's a pretty long commute.

Their average daily catch and earnings has been falling steadily for many years. The main reason for this is over fishing, however, the small-scale fishermen are only partly responsible for that. Overwhelmingly, large foreign & Thai boats have been doing most of the destruction in the decades since World War II. The anchovy boats are the final nail in the coffin.

"Modern technology" and exports have introduced fishing methods and tools that deplete both fish populations and their ecosystems, especially spawning areas. These include huge drift nets that caught dolphins & turtles, dredge nets that destroy coral & sea floors, dynamite & poisons, radar, and flood lights. Such small-scale fishermen often can't afford the expensive equipment needed to fish in the destructive techniques of the selfish guys. Many who took out loans to try gave it up feeling guilty about the destructiveness.

They are struggling to maintain their way of life and family closeness. If their livelihood is destroyed by selfish criminals cum businessmen and corrupt politicians (see analysis below), they may be able to sell their labor in the cities, but then they will have little time for their families and to participate in the raising in their children. "If we can't fish here anymore, our village will be full of widows, because all of us will have to sell our labor in Malaysia or other provinces." And they will have lost their connection with their ancestors and the sea.

One local leader argued that maintaining healthy fisheries in the Gulf is necessary for the health of everyone in the country. Sea fish provide certain minerals and vitamins not found in factory raised chickens and pigs or freshwater fish. He suggested that maintaining sustainable fisheries in the Gulf would improve the long-range diet of people throughout the country. Later, others pointed out that most of the best fish and shrimp are exported.

Causes

What has pushed the backs of these people to the wall? The last straw has been the government's changing of the law to allow large anchovy boats to fish at night using floodlights to attract the fish. These lights attract all species. Further, air is injected into the water to create bubbles that attract fish also. Anchovies are small fish, so the nets used to catch them are rather fine and the government is permitting them to use even finer nets than is necessary. These nets not only catch the anchovies, they take up the fry of larger species. These species, which used to be the staple of Thai fisheries, have been over-fished to the point of virtual non-existence. With widespread anchovy fishing, especially using the new methods, they have no chance of recovery. When the local fishermen — all small-scale — stopped fishing to allow the Pla Too population a breather, the anchovy boats wasted this sacrifice by scooping up the Pla Too fry with impunity.

Previously, the anchovy boats could fish only during the day. The law didn't let them fish with floodlights during the night. Allowing them to fish at night with floodlights lets them attract and scoop up everything in the water. Barely half of their catch is anchovy, the rest is sold for a few baht per kilo to be used in poultry feed. The large boats also use much larger nets and have better equipment for finding the fish. With much larger hauls, they are primarily responsible for any problems.

Actually, most of the large boats broke the law anyway. The government (in general, but with some local exceptions) had little ability and no interest in enforcing the law. It wasn't until the local fishermen called for the laws to be enforced that the government paid attention. Then, the best they could do was to change a reasonable one into a foolish one.

Since the government sold out the local fishermen, many have given up the struggle and tried to copy the large boats destructive practices. So now there are also 300 or more small boats using lights and fine nets. These "defections" have led to tensions within the community, although the Fishermen's Association understands the economic pressures these other fishermen face, for all the small-scale fishermen face them. There is great frustration, even despair.

The Power Behind the Throne

Who is behind the anchovy fishing? A certain infamous Kamnan from the Eastern seaboard owns approximately 80 of the 100 large anchovy boats operating in this part of the Gulf. Going back 30 years ago, over fishing had lowered the haul of large commercial fish like mackerel and tuna. Taiwanese trawlers came in with drag and dredge nets to fish smaller species. These too have been over fished, so the much smaller anchovies are one of the few economic fishes left in any quantity. However, this Kamnan's boats have helped fish out areas near their home ports along the eastern seaboard. Now they are destroying the fisheries further south. After these are gone, Thailand won't have any more viable fisheries. One biologist walker quips that "we Thais will have to develop a taste for plankton."

This Kamnan is reputed to be Siam's most powerful Godfather. His son is a senior member of the Chat Thai party and a Minister in the current government. That this shady figure can force the so-called Democrats to protect his immoral "business practices" to the detriment of 1000s of families, the entire Gulf fisheries, and the future of the country tells much about the political system here. Anyone who still thinks it is democratic, despite some recent progress with the new constitution, is not living in reality.

Our hosts also pointed out that the crews on the large boats are all foreigners working for half the wages Thai would be paid: Burmese, Khmers, & Laotians. Further, there is heavy use of meta-amphetamines & heroin on these boats. AIDS is also rife among these young men far from home trapped on boats for long stretches of time. To Buddhist observers, the immorality of the situation is manifold.

The owners of the large boats, along with their government flunkies, have convinced many small-scale fishermen that they can make a lot of money using the same fishing methods as the big boats. The big guys even lend money to the small guys to buy equipment. Once they got enough of these small guys into the anchovy game, they used them politically to oppose those who struggle for more sustainable fishing. Further, the government has encouraged villagers in the area to process the anchovies into various products. This has bought more supporters for the destructive, unsustainable approach. This cynical stimulation of selfishness further reveals the short-sightedness of the Thai leadership. It also discredits any attempts they make to speak for the Thai people, for they only represent the interests of a few, many of whom are corrupt & criminal.

Whose Government?

The government's current attempt to deal with the local fishermen's complaints is a pretense of creating fair rules to allow all 3 groups of fishermen to co-exist. The Songkhla governor proposes 3 zones: the one closest to shore is closed to anchovy fishing, the middle zone is open to anchovy fishing by the small anchovy boats only, and everything further out is wide open. The Fishermen's Association's response is "you do what you want," meaning that he has been using his power to enforce policies beneficial to the big boats and harmful to the small-scale fishermen without really listening to them. Therefore, they refuse to agree to impositions that they consider wrong and unjust, even while recognizing that they can't stop the government's maneuvers.

Their point is supported by the observation that the Songkhla fisheries officer only has one seafaring boat, a limited budget, and a small staff at his disposal to cover more than 100 km of coast. Moreover, once we know what kind of person owns most of the larger boats, his boats' inattention to the niceties of the law should come as no surprise. Nonetheless, the government lead by the superficially principled Democrats maintains the illusion of fairness without making any effort to provide local fisheries officials with the tools and budget they need to police a reasonable agreement, IF one were to be made. Why then should the people agree to an illusion?

The integrity and good-will of the government is necessarily under question. When the Sating Phra fisheries officer was sympathetic to the people's cause, he was transferred as punishment. When the current governor was able to push through the government's policy, he was rewarded. Thus working for shady interests from up North more than those of local people, the environment, or democracy. (He is also well-known for supporting local projects that benefit him financially.) I wonder if the government is doing whatever it can to drive people away from areas slated to become industrial estates and chase them into the cities in order to keep wages low. This has happened repeatedly throughout the years of "development." Given the way government planners turn human lives into statistics, my suspicion fits with their way of thinking, one that ignores the realities of the human heart.

Fortunately, the local leaders are still active and creative. They are experimenting with other forms of income that will tide them over when the fisheries fully collapse and only plankton is left. Once the big boats go out of distance, the fisherfolk hope the fisheries will slowly rejuvenate and allow them to return to their ancestral livelihood. One leader has been successful growing catfish in a pond at his house and now others are following his lead. To the government's chagrin, they don't intend to leave their homes for wage slavery.

When peoples' backs are against the wall, when their livelihood and way of life are being destroyed, when they are given no chance to maintain their dignity, their responses can be unpredictable. So far, violence has for the most part been on the part of the government. It is part of large issues that we will face at the end of the walk — petrochemicals & industrial estates — that will completely transform the environment and ways of life in the Sating Phra peninsula. Some friends are worried that the frustrations are starting to boil and it may not possible to keep them from exploding. The Communist Part of Thailand is "history," but it appears the Thai elite, including criminal elements, are doing everything in their part to resurrect it in one form or another.

Finally, people down here wonder what Mrs. Tuan taught her son (Chuan the Prime Minister). In Southern Siam, this is a severe rebuke meaning that if she was a good mother she would have taught her son properly, but look how worthless he turned out. When a son is pigheaded and stubborn, one "scolds the mother" until she uses her influence to knock her son in line. So far, she seems to prefer the limelight instead.

Dhamma Reflections on Peoples' Struggle

During last night's discussion, I was asked to provide some Dhamma perspectives on the situation that we were learning about. This time, rather than use Dhamma principles to critique the "money system" (government, speculators, organized crime, et al) directly, I used them to give an extended "blessing" or anumondana to our hosts. I acknowledged Dhamma principles they were practicing in their struggle and praised them for this. At the same time, I encouraged them to practice these principles more wholeheartedly as a means to purify & strengthen themselves and their struggle. Obviously, there was also an implied contrast with the behavior of the godfather & his government cronies, and though I tried not to criticize them directly, I couldn't stop myself mentioning behavior that was particularly unfair, immoral, cowardly, and corrupt.

Gratitude

As mentioned in Bulletin 3, this is an important traditional value throughout Thailand & Thai Buddhism. By struggling to preserve their ancestors' way of life, they show gratitude to their ancestors. By doing what they can to prevent the Gulf fisheries from total collapse, they show gratitude to the Nature that sustains us all (including the politicians & criminals). By practicing non-violence, they show gratitude to their religious & cultural heritage.

Sila (Morals)

While fishing kills fish, large-scale fishing as practiced in the Gulf of Siam destroys species & ecosystems. Small-scale fishing kills, but it can also be done sustainably, which limits the scope & suffering caused. There is a meaningful distinction between killing individual fish in order to live and killing industrial quantities in order to make big profits. Further, the local fishermen have not resorted to physical violence to achieve their goals.

The government & its masters are stealing the livelihood, heritage, & future of local peoples. The struggle against such violence helps minimize structural theft, that is, the appropriation of common resources by the few.

I suggested that it is important that the fishermen avoid the drug & alcohol abuse common on large commercial boats and in corporate & government boardrooms. Moral authority is one form of power available to peoples' groups in pseudo-democratic places like Siam.

Patience (Khanti)

Subjected to years of deception, threats of violence, government duplicity, political corruption, slander, and the like, the fishermen & their leaders we met had largely maintained their cool, not resorted to violence, and carried on their struggle against huge odds.

Metta-Karuna (Kindness & Compassion)

We can see kindness at work towards fish species and the Gulf ecosystem, towards the small-scale fishermen who have been lured into destructive anchovy fishing, and even towards the big boat owners & their government protectors. The small-scale fishermen haven't made overt displays of hatred such as burning effigies.

Intimacy with Nature

Ajarn Buddhadasa often stressed that the Buddha lived intimately with Nature: he was born in the middle of Nature, awakened in the middle of Nature, lived & taught in the middle of Nature, and died in the middle of Nature. Such intimacy had an important role in his realization of Dhamma (Nature, the Law of Nature, & Natural Duty). All Dhamma practitioners should take this into consideration and find ways to live as intimately with Nature as possible.

The small-scale fishermen's struggle was partly based on their intimacy with the sea, its ways, its life forms, and their place in relation to these. While they made mistakes, too; they learned from their mistakes & have made efforts to redress them. The government politicians & bureaucrats, the businessmen in Bangkok & abroad, make their decisions without such intimacy (let the reader fill in the blanks of what such movers & shakers are intimate with) and have a commensurate understanding of Dhamma. They also show less ability to learn from their mistakes, perhaps because they are insulated from the immediate consequences.

Cooperation & Harmony (Samaggi)

Monks here frequently preach this virtue, perhaps because Thai men are highly individualistic in a certain emotional way. Getting factions in a village, or in a national government, to work together is often a matter of "catching crabs on a tray." Further, the government is fond of divide & rule tactics when dealing with peoples' organizations.

The ability of the local group to network with other local fishermen's associations and to sustain their solidarity under great pressure & sacrifice is praiseworthy. Further, they continue to look for ways to support each other in the face of government intransigence and defections of some of their colleagues.

Non-Violent Methods

In this emotionally sensitive and face conscious cultural, open criticism is considered "violent." The government & others in power often use this attitude to suppress disagreement, criticism, and the truth. The local fishermen have not fallen for this deceit but have not used physical violence against persons or property, even during their closure of the sea lanes at certain times. This discipline and commitment is important in the peoples' struggle.

Encouraging Mindfulness (Sati) Among Each Other

Buddhist practice depends on paying attention to life as it is, as it arises & changes. As mentioned above, these fishermen have shown more ability to pay attention to how their actions effect the sea & fish populations than middle-class consumers in the cities & government decision makers. Thus, we find more learning & creative adaptation among these fishermen.

Wisdom

Considering the tendency of the educated classes to look down on those with less formal education, it is important to recognize the learning, intelligence, and wisdom displayed by the local fishermen. They show greater awareness of the impermanence of life & natural resources than the politicians & government planners. They show a greater commitment to honesty & the truth, which can only come from a deeper experience of truth. They show more ability to take a long view of events and consider the future of their children & the Gulf's ecosystem. It might be fair to conclude that the sea & its life forms educate better than universities.

Thank you for your interest. Feel free to share these bulletins as widely as you like. Fax, reproduce, email, and publish them as much as you want. Please do not edit them in any way that changes the meaning or intent of the author, and accredit them to Santikaro Bhikkhu on behalf of "The Dhamma-Yatra for Songkhla Lake" © 2000.